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Craig LaBan on Restaurants and Food
 
2:01
Craig -  Good afternoon, my hungry friends, and welcome back to our weekly chat-tastic adventure into the finer points of Philly flavors. Have you had some highlight meals since we last spoke? I know I ate some memorable plates, both tasty and dubious. On the unfortunate side: lunch at Aramark’s health code-challenged cafeteria in the state capitol building, which my editors thought would be worth a critical visit, given the recent headlines about rodents and failed inspections. It was about what you’d expect from a big cafeteria, plus a scary “hairy” finale to my cheesesteak. Don’t let anyone tell you being a restaurant critic is all glamour.

Of course, there were plenty of palate pleasers this week, too. I got a chance to note a couple surprising and very worthy South Jersey wines (a cab franc from Sharrot in Winslow, and a gewürztraminer from Alba in Finesville) that won gold medals at the SF Chronicle Wine competition a few weeks ago. (I also neglected to mention in my story that the Twin Brook Winery in Gap, Pa., also took a bronze there for its 2008 Reserve Chard)…

Thankfully, I also had some pretty good meals last week, too. Some of the high points I’m serving up today as evidence clues for this week’s Crumb Tracker quiz. Name all three places I ate them in order, and win a prize: 1) “duck hearts and dirty rice”- the ultimate Valentine small plate for an extreme foodie romance; 2) roast leg of lamb in a terracotta crock with root vegetables and rich gravy; 3) volcanically hot and bubbly soft tofu casserole with mushrooms (think: authentic)…Ready, set…start crumbing!
2:08
Craig -  On a quick side note. I've gotta love a Super Bowl with a good culinary theme - and this Sunday's game has it, least with one team. I'm planning to bring some of my best NOLA dishes to the party this weekend (jambalaya, real oysters Rockefeller, maybe a gumbo)...but can't do that without the proper smoked meats. For this, thank God for the internet. I'm using Jacob's andouille this year, chef John Besh's favorite, so we'll see how that goes. In past years, though, I've had good success with smoked meat from the Best Stop in Lafayette, as well as the Cajun Grocer, which is an excellent online grocer for all Louisiana products. It's not too late to get this right, by the way. Most of these do next-day and 2-day shipping, so Thursday or Friday is still plenty o' time to get that gumbo pot cooking.
2:08
[Comment From Mike H]
Hey Craig, I checked out Maru global this weekend for their focus group, I had eaten Takoyaki before, but Maru takes the extra care to keep the dough soft and fluffy, the rice bowl with broth and sirloin was also a fav, quick cheap eats, good for a group looking to share
2:10
Craig -  Hey Mike H - thanks so much for this early report on Maru, the Japanese street-fooder near Jefferson specializing in takoyaki (crepe balls stuffed with things, like octopus). Since you were the first one who opined on this chat for a takoyaki source, I'm glad to hear Maru left a good first impression.
2:10
[Comment From Cesar Fojan]
Craig, has the Wednesday night at Fork held up after Feury took over?
2:11
Craig -  Cesar - this was always the most interesting part of Fork (and Fork Etc. in recent years) And it has gotten even better - eons better! - since Feury stepped in last year. That's a weekly event I'd like to return to frequently, simply because of the interestimg flavors (lots of meals based around whole animals, chef-brewed beers, etc.) And it's a relative deal.
2:11
[Comment From eileen]
Now that tom pittakas is no longer the bar manager at alison two...is it even worth the trip? Andy Brown brought it another bell in the year end review, but the bar was my reason for attendance.
2:14
Craig -  Eileen - I didn't know that about Tom's departure. Shame, because that was a serious bar - great beer selection (one of best in 'burbs), serious culinary cocktails (with all the best house-made mixers and estoteric liqueurs, absinthes, etc.), plus a high-tech wine bar with some really notable bottles on draft. I'm not going to assume the bar is going down hill simply because Tom left, but he was certainly the driving force behind that positive aspect of Alison's, since Day One. I'll be curious to hear what bar he lands behind.
2:14
[Comment From Jay]
Craig, any thoughts on Gemelli? You didn't comment on the dish that was the crumb tracker two weeks ago....
2:15
Craig -  Jay - I did comment lightly on that "vitello tonnato" (tuna tartare atop braised veal cheeks: I liked it.) But can't go into more details on Gemelli as a whole just yet for the usual reasons.... patience, patience, my fellow chatter.
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